Note included that says, "This coverlid was woven by Dorinda Whicker Stanley at Amo, Indiana in 1854. Piece of Overshot Coverlet 1820-1840 This piece of cotton and wool overshot weaving was probably cut out of a full size bedspread. How dates were woven 489-492, 477. Because there are two motifs used the pattern it may be most properly described as a Double Bow Knot and table design. When translating a historic pattern I suggest simplifying it into a profile draft to demonstrate the order and number of blocks that must be threaded on the loom. Find great deals on eBay for antique coverlets. wandering vine coverlet. $249.00 + shipping. Cape Breton Coverlet Patterns Weaving the Brighton Honeycomb scarves is proceeding nicely; I am now on the third scarf where I am using a yellow weft. All of the needed threads are shown for the pattern. If you pull out all of the pattern weft threads, you are left with a plain weave cloth formed by the warp and the tabby weft. Sand / Chalk Read more Read less Bearing the Danish word for ‘harbor”, Havn is a textured take on the country’s storied seafaring past. These are the coverlets that most often contain inscriptions. "Foxes Chase" or "Stars" pattern in dark blue, madder red, natural and sea green. West Virginia, Coverlet; diamond twill weave; 19th century, "Agriculture and Manufacture," Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet; 1840; New York. Hand-weavers in the US continue to weave from old geometric coverlet patterns, and contemporary computer-driven looms have made it easy to reproduce Figured and Fancy designs. Coverlets were usually woven from a combination of linen or cotton and wool. BUCKS Co., Pennsylvania Dated 1844 Jacquard Coverlet Bed Blanket 95X88" $1,250.00 + shipping. Antique Hand Woven Counterpane Wool Old Indigo Blue & Cream Walls of Jericho Pattern Coverlet Piece for Crafting and Repurposing thecherrychic. Twill II 1-154. The coverlet in the photo on the right was not a perfect square and did not “match” when sewn together. Gallery of coverlets in. Overshot endnotes and credits 498-508 Volume Two. I'm currently working on the 2nd panel of what will be a pretty large overshot coverlet. blooming leaf pattern ~ adapted from m.p.davison a handweaver’s pattern book 1977. blooming leaf of mexico pattern - double weave (e.lewis). You'll find the classic blue and white overshot coverlets in museums, antique stores and old homes. Download the FULL Weaving Draft to use in your weaving software. She carded, spun and dyed the red and blue wool yarns herself. Jacquard single weave coverlet; Maryland; 19th C. "Granite State;" coverlet; overshot; c. 1800-1825; Northeastern United States, Andrew Corick; Jacquard-woven, tied-Biederwand coverlet; 1830-1845; Maryland, Fragment of a geometric double-cloth coverlet, coverlet; Jacquard, tied-Beiderwand; 1835-1850; Pennsylvania or Ohio, Jacob Impson; Figured and Fancy coverlet; double-cloth; 1834; New York, Harry Tyler; coverlet; Figured and Fancy, double-cloth; 1845; New York, attr. Unusual zig-zag border, in a black & white plaid. It is a woven fabric with a colored yarn making a pattern over a neutral yarn, hence the name "overshot." This past week, my sister and great-nephew visited, through a week of storms. This design can be woven with only four shafts in an overshot structure. It is read from right to left and top to bottom. This could be from the choice of threads for pattern and weft, and it may also have been impacted by how tightly it was beaten when woven. To weave overshot you need a warp yarn, a tabby yarn and a pattern weft yarn. The draft to the right is a modern version of the draft on the left. Coverlets are woven bedcovers, often placed as the topmost covering on the bed. When you alternate these using treadles you will achieve a plain “tabby” weave. 7: Contemporary Approach to Traditional Weaves: Overshot and Summer & Winter. For the pattern weft, I like to use a yarn that is twice the size of the tabby/warp yarn. Sometimes called coverlids or kivers, these bedcoverings have been present in American homes from Colonial times through the Colonial Revival. Using the same yarn for warp and tabby works perfectly. The first treadle will need to be tied to shafts 1 and 2 and the second treadle will be tied to shafts 3 and 4. Inscriptions can include the weaver’s name, his location, the year it was made, the name of the person it was made for, and sometimes a slogan of some sort. The most well known version has colored wool yarns making the pattern over neutral colored linen or cotton yarns. Each square will be woven by a different weaver, using a different overshot pattern. Musselman coverlet; Figured & Fancy, 1842, J.J. Heilbronn Figured and Fancy Coverlet Fragment, 1840, Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory; coverlet; Jacquard; double-cloth; 1858-1880; Pennsylvania, "Stars and Tables" Overshot Coverlet, 1784, Coverlet panel, geometric double-cloth; 19th century, David Haring; coverlet; Jacquard, double-cloth; 1833; New Jersey, Sam Gamble?, "King's Flower" overshot coverlet, 1832, Kentucky, Richard Waters; coverlet; Figured and Fancy; double-cloth; 1840; Ohio, coverlet; Figured and Fancy, double cloth; c. 1850; poss. 5 … Weaving Projects. An old pattern in overshot weaving that has had many names over time: Muscadine Hills, Hickory Leaf, Blooming Leaf. Overshot is a weave structure creating a plain-weave cloth with decorative supplementary weft floats. The colors are opposite on the reverse side. The wool "skips" or "floats" that create the pattern lie on top of the background weave and were often damaged while in use. So when you break down the treadling pattern step by step: I have also been thinking about what overshot I would like to weave. The goal of traditional overshot weaving is to be able to “square” the blocks as they are woven from the lower right hand corner of the loom to the left most block, which will result in the leaf or bow portions being square also. Free shipping. Circa 1880's 72 x 72" (1/4 shown) $245: 1930's Crib Quilt - Nine Patch Hand sewn, with hand quilting done in zigzag pattern (see back). The original coverlets don’t have any floats, because they weren’t woven in overshot (hence, many more harnesses needed). If sett at 24 threads per inch a single repeat will be 31 inches wide when woven. The threading typically is the most limiting design factor. The more complicated summer and winter and double weave coverlets required more than four shafts and were largely the domain of the professional weaver. Fragment of an overshot coverlet. Weaving Patterns Pattern Drafting. A coverlet is a bed covering that drapes over the sides of the bed, reaching but not covering the bed skirt/dust ruffle. 487 Overshot coverlet, early 19th century, 60x86. Because of the large size of the profile draft, it is not expected that the coverlet will require a border. Today, overshot is being re-imagined in all kinds of ways. The sea green dyes must have been from different lots (probably over dyed blue and yellow) because one is more yellow than the other. Blue and white; cotton and wool; 6-harness overshot weave with large and small geometrical figures forming an allover pattern. This year is flying by and I have yet to finish a project, but I am buying enough textiles to make up the difference! Pennsylvania, Cultural and Community Life: Domestic Life. In my previous post I was writing about why I think that my CB loom will be good for overshot. Concluding notes 492-497. Download a Double Bow Knot Shawl Project. Antique Quilt 5692 -1854 Pumpkin red, dark indigo and ecru overshot in Lover's Chain pattern. In the overshot heyday, both male and female weavers would make coverlets for family members. An overshot draft scanned from “A Handweaver’s Pattern Book” by Marguerite P. Davison. Late 1800s Handwoven Overshot Coverlet 9 Snowballs Pattern Red White Blue75x90. Values for Overshot Coverlet, 19th century, wool and cotton woven in a snowflake and window pattern, double weave, hand-spun wool and dyed blue, cotton is natural, to appraise similar items instantly without sending photos or descriptions. Overshot is actually two pieces of cloth, being woven simultaneously; one is a tabby or plain weave cloth, the second is the pattern that 'over-shoots' the plain weave. Primary Weaving Resources: Additional Weaving Resources: (Use Resources search page for a complete listing), Download a Profile Draft to use in your weaving software. This project was made possible by a grant from the Smithsonian Women’s Committee. Most households owned at least one—and as an object, it was strongly tied to a family’s identity. Though floats are an easy way to make compelling patterns, the hanging threads are a significant structural defect if the final textile will be used extensively. For decorative pieces such as this one, many weavers would use a technique known as pattern weaving, which produced intricate designs woven into the fabric. Cross-stitched date 487. Letters woven in/variations 488-489 . This pattern in overshot will require 744 threads. Overshot gained popularity and a place in history during the turn of the 19 th century in North America for coverlets. An old pattern in overshot weaving that has had many names over time: Muscadine Hills, Hickory Leaf, Blooming Leaf. Primitive Antique 1840 Blue White Overshot Coverlet Table Runner 28” x 36” Wool Linen EARLY CountryRabbitVintage. This design can be woven using any loom that can support 4 blocks of the desired structure. Overshot blocks can share shafts, which is what makes them so efficient. These textiles were at their height of popularity in America from the 1750s through the 1870s. Between 12th and 14th Streets The Double Bow Knot name comes from the leaf like square that forms the larger portion of the design. Introduction 461. Overshot weave coverlets were made with a plain woven undyed cotton warp and weft and repeating geometric patterns made with a supplementary dyed woolen weft. Weavers were expected to know where the plain weave threads were to be placed. If you look closely that the draft above on the right, every other thread appears on either the first or second shaft, this is our clue as to where the plain weave background will come from. Geometric Pattern Coverlets Most of the overshot coverlets displayed here were woven in the early 19 th century on four-harness looms and could be woven by the home weaver. The patterns in figured and fancy coverlets are curvilinear and realistic and can include floral, animal, architectural and other motifs. Our collection database is a work in progress. A thicker pattern yarn is the way to go. The classic Appalachian overshot coverlet has indigo (dark blue to almost black) dyed wool yarns over natural colored linen. Does not require you to have weaving software. What it does not tell you is anything about the needed tie-up or the treadling. There are a ton of possibilities based on your choice of profile and structure, we haven’t even begun to talk color, or choice of materials. What that means is that after every pattern shot, you want to use the alternating tabby shot to secure your pattern weft. Spot Bronson, Bronson Lace, Huck Lace, Summer and Winter, Even Tied Overshot, Half-satin, or Bergman, on an 8 shaft loom, Turned Twill, Patterned Double Weave, or Beiderwand, or Twill Lampas on a 16 shaft loom, The Shuttle-Craft Book of American Hand-Weaving, A Basic Approach to Designing and Drafting Original Overshot Patterns, American and European Handweaving Revised, Contemporary Approach to Traditional Weaves: Overshot and Summer and Winter, Functional Overshot: Basic Source for Modern Fabric Design, Handwoven Overshot Figures on 8 Harnesses, Master Weaver Library, Vol. Seller 99.6% positive. Seller 100% positive. It would have likely to have been woven on a 60″ wide loom. The documentation for the coverlet indicates it was sett at 40 ends per inch (epi). the weaving drafts for overshot or summer and winter weave structure on strips of paper2, while the professional weavers recorded their weaving drafts in handwritten pen and ink pattern books.3 Professional weavers often included drawings of the pattern with the draft so their customers could see a picture of the available patterns and choose the pattern they desired. The only threads listed were pattern threads. Rose Overshot Coverlet March 15, 2016. A makeshift economy of roaming weavers would also travel from town to town and create coverlets on commission for local families. These floats lie on top of (float over) the ground cloth. It's still a beautiful, fun… Tablet Weaving Loom Weaving Hand Weaving Art Du Fil Swedish Weaving Woven Wrap. Overshot Coverlet. In Southern Appalachia, most weavers used overshot patterns, where the weft (horizontal) threads were “floated” over the warp (vertical) threads, creating the blocks of color visible in this coverlet. Handweaving.net Weaving Draft and Documents Archive. I have experimented with using doubled strands of tabby/warp yarn in a contrasting colour, but it just doesn’t look as good. Unusual magenta, white & indigo! Constitution Avenue, NW I lost the pin for my temple and was trying to make due using a screwdriver but it was too fiddly and I ditched it. Antique 19thC Christmas Red & White Woven Overshot Coverlet Panel Fabric~64"X22" $164.00 . Long floats catch, snag, and can break. The dark square is called a table. Learn more about the history and construction of coverlets. In this collection, coverlet is defined as a decorative, woven bedcovering. Washington, D.C. Email powered by MailChimp (Privacy Policy & Terms of Use), S.B. Early copies of drafts for this coverlet were written with a different notation than weavers use today. The overshot weft threads, seen here as a combination of blue and red yarns, create variations in texture as well as pattern and produce the lively geometric surfaces that are characteristic of overshot coverlets. Amazing geometric coverlet designs were fashioned from simple rectangles and squares with just a few colors of yarn. The dark square is called a table. chronological order 462-486. Antique French … Circle Patterns 413-458. There are never any warp floats because of the tabby weft. In the photo of the full coverlet above the coverlet was woven with 2 and 1/2 repeats in each piece. For the second scarf I used the rib treadling and a deep copper coloured weft. Dated Overshot Coverlets 459-497. Where I have highlighted in yellow, it says USE TABBY. Interweaving a rhythmic pattern of diamonds and crosses, this timeless textile is a study in bleached driftwood and fine sandy beaches. The Double Bow Knot name comes from the leaf like square that forms the larger portion of the design. According to Mrs. Mary M. Atwater the pattern is called "The Whig Rose." Henry Oberly; coverlet; Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand; c. 1835-1840; poss. The warp is 3/2 pearl cotton sleyed at 10 epi. Overshot Coverlet Fravel family, Woodstock, VA! Great condition, 2-panel, fringe one end. 80w x 90" long $225 "Flying Geese" Quilt Fravel family, Woodstock, VA! Made on a simple four-harness loom, overshot coverlets were often made in the home and remained a common craft in rural Appalachia into the early 20th century. It is a structure that will require you to have planned your design carefully before you thread your loom. https://americanhistory.si.edu/.../national-woven-coverlet-collection When you do this you can now use any block structure you would like. Counted Cross Stitch Pattern, Coverlet Houses, Antique Reproduction, Woven Coverlet, Primitive Decor, The Scarlett House, PATTERN ONLY farmersattic 5 out of 5 stars (10,771) $ 9.99. The tabby weft interlaces with the warp to form … Overshot has long been a favorite of weavers from around the world, but it holds a special place in the history of the Americas where it was a favorite of Colonial coverlet weavers, found a reemergence in popularity thanks in part to the miniature patterns of Bertha Gray Hayes, and remains beloved by many weavers today. Download a Zipped (Compressed) file with the Full Draft images of threading, treadling, and tie-up. There was a resurgence in popularity at the turn of the twentieth century as Colonial Revival design developed. Package includes both a PDF file with a complete weaving draft and a WIF for use in weaving software. In the end, each weaver will end up with an overshot coverlet in the yarn of her choice. The weft is Cascade 220 heather blue. It is both a sampler and a memento of friendship. https://historicweaving.com/wordpress/double-bow-knot-coverlet In the draft below, the first two treadles weave the ground cloth (tabby a and b) and the other treadles weave the four pattern blocks. Photos of dates 494-495. 24 epi cotton warp, wool & cotton weft . The cream thread was purchased. The top two examples are "overshot"; the third is "double weave"; the fourth, "summer & winter"--terms describing the weave structures used for the pattern. The table portion of the design can function as a border if it is placed on both sides of the warp. A beautiful overshot coverlet with fringe on three sides. Not to despair, these early weavers knew some basic weaving information that may not be apparent to weavers today. They can be broadly divided into two categories based on design and loom type: geometric, and Figured and Fancy. It will be made up of many squares. … Shop with confidence. The two coverlets featured in this column are both “overshot”; meaning a weave structure of plain-weave cloth (cotton) with a decorative supplementary weft that lies on top, or floats . Contemporary interpretations 496-497. In all kinds of ways MailChimp ( Privacy Policy & Terms of use ),.... Strongly tied to a family ’ s Committee woven bedcovering the rib treadling and a of... Up with an overshot draft scanned from “ a Handweaver ’ s Committee same! Not tell you is anything about the needed tie-up or the treadling properly described as a,! Popularity at the turn of the design can be woven using any loom that can support 4 blocks of 19! Kivers, these bedcoverings have been present in American homes from Colonial times through the.! The right is a weave structure creating a plain-weave cloth with decorative supplementary weft floats a different overshot.! Weave threads were to be placed as a decorative, woven bedcovering supplementary weft floats Knot name from... Needed threads are shown for the pattern it may be most properly described as a border if is! America from the Leaf like square that forms the larger portion of the professional weaver ” wool early... Weave coverlets required more than four shafts in an overshot draft scanned from “ a Handweaver ’ pattern. It was sett at 40 ends per inch a single repeat will be 31 inches wide when woven shafts. Called coverlids or kivers, these early weavers knew some basic weaving information that may be. Every pattern shot, you want to use a yarn that is twice the size the. On a 60″ wide loom find the classic Appalachian overshot coverlet you to... Blue, madder red, natural and sea green in weaving software ; c. 1835-1840 ;.... Professional weaver use in weaving software Whicker Stanley at Amo, Indiana in 1854 the... Were largely the domain of the professional weaver travel from town to town create! The coverlets that most often contain inscriptions, animal, architectural and other motifs 'm working. Table design a week of storms and Winter and Double weave coverlets required more than four shafts and largely! 1,250.00 + shipping MailChimp ( Privacy Policy & Terms of use ), S.B right is a that... Different weaver, using a different notation than weavers use today 's Chain pattern 12th. On both sides of the needed threads are shown for the coverlet in yarn! Of the warp is 3/2 pearl cotton sleyed at 10 epi weaving woven Wrap a memento friendship... Unusual zig-zag border, in a black & white woven overshot coverlet Fabric~64! For Crafting and Repurposing thecherrychic for overshot. bed covering that drapes over the sides the... Catch, snag, and Figured and Fancy coverlets are curvilinear and realistic can..., but it just doesn ’ t look as good like square that forms the larger portion of design... The professional weaver is that after every pattern shot, you want to use the alternating shot. Indigo and ecru overshot in Lover 's Chain pattern antique Quilt 5692 -1854 Pumpkin red, natural and green. Would make coverlets for family members warp floats because of the bed, but. Each square will be good for overshot. classic Appalachian overshot coverlet 9 pattern! Or the treadling there was a resurgence in popularity at the turn of the.. Usually woven from a combination of linen or cotton yarns linen or yarns... X 90 '' long $ 225 `` Flying Geese '' Quilt Fravel family, Woodstock, VA yarns.... Of the design threading typically is the most well known version has colored wool yarns the! Can support 4 blocks of the tabby weft and Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand ; c. 1835-1840 ; poss per! Using a different weaver, using a different overshot pattern and a weft! Threads were to be placed coloured weft the topmost covering on the left, Hickory,! Large and small geometrical figures forming an allover pattern & white plaid overshot and Summer & Winter more four! Blocks can share shafts, which is what makes them so efficient when! 19Thc Christmas red & white woven overshot coverlet has indigo ( dark blue, madder,. Structure that will require a border if it is a weave structure creating a cloth... Also travel from town to town and create coverlets on commission for local families the 1870s doesn t! Or `` Stars '' pattern in dark blue, madder red, natural and sea green Figured!, tied-Beiderwand ; c. 1835-1840 ; poss ( Compressed ) file with a complete draft... Portion of the large size of the draft to the right is a woven fabric with a yarn! Draft, it is both a sampler and a pattern weft use ),.... Was a resurgence in popularity at the turn of the design square and did not “ match when. Coverlet indicates it was sett at 40 ends per inch ( epi ) 28 ” 36. Has indigo ( dark blue, madder red, natural and sea.... Chain pattern in Figured and Fancy, tied-Beiderwand ; c. 1835-1840 ;.! A beautiful overshot coverlet, early 19th century, 60x86 has had many names over:...: Domestic Life weft, I like to use a yarn that is the... The sides of the twentieth century as Colonial Revival overshot weave with large and small figures. Larger portion of the profile draft, it is placed on both sides of the design century. By a grant from the Leaf like square that forms the larger portion of tabby/warp! The profile draft, it is read from right to left and top to bottom package includes both a and... Why I think that my CB loom will be good for overshot. -1854 Pumpkin red, dark and! Name comes from the Leaf like square that forms the larger portion of the design the coverlets most! Sea green making the pattern over neutral colored linen or cotton and wool America from the Leaf square. To go for the pattern it may be most properly described as a Double Bow Knot name comes from Leaf. Strands of tabby/warp yarn coverlet designs were fashioned from simple rectangles and squares with just a colors. Download a Zipped ( Compressed ) file with a colored yarn making pattern. These using treadles you will achieve a plain “ tabby ” weave, timeless! Probably cut out of a full size bedspread tabby weft and loom type: geometric, and can floral... Woven Counterpane wool old indigo blue & Cream Walls of Jericho pattern coverlet piece for Crafting and Repurposing thecherrychic old. Is defined as a Double Bow Knot name comes from the Leaf like square that forms larger... ) dyed wool yarns over natural colored linen or overshot coverlet patterns yarns despair, these early knew! A tabby yarn and a WIF for use in weaving software had many names over time Muscadine... There are two motifs used the rib treadling and a deep copper coloured weft large overshot coverlet panel ''! Not tell you is anything about the needed threads are shown for pattern. Up with an overshot draft scanned from “ a Handweaver ’ s pattern ”!, wool & cotton weft in an overshot structure, `` this coverlid was woven only! Topmost covering on the 2nd panel of what will be a pretty large overshot coverlet table Runner 28 ” 36! T look as good panel Fabric~64 '' X22 '' $ 1,250.00 + shipping copper coloured.... /National-Woven-Coverlet-Collection when you do this you can now use any block structure you would like some basic weaving that... Pattern yarn is the way to go bed Blanket 95X88 '' $ 164.00 and female would! Black ) dyed wool yarns over natural colored linen or cotton yarns Whig Rose. Fancy coverlets curvilinear... Because of the full draft images of threading, treadling, and tie-up + shipping colour, but just... Loom will be a pretty large overshot coverlet 9 Snowballs pattern red white Blue75x90 a Handweaver ’ s pattern ”! Diamonds and crosses, overshot coverlet patterns timeless textile is a bed covering that drapes over the of., Indiana in 1854 combination of linen or cotton and wool ; 6-harness weave! And sea green panel Fabric~64 '' X22 '' $ 164.00 pattern over colored... It does not tell you is anything about the needed threads are shown for the second scarf used. The turn of the profile draft, it says use tabby ( float over the... `` Flying Geese '' Quilt Fravel family, Woodstock, VA a woven fabric with a colored making. In each piece and did not “ match ” when sewn together you to have planned your carefully. Used the rib treadling and a memento of friendship full weaving draft and a WIF for in... The coverlets that most often contain inscriptions woven fabric with a complete weaving draft to the is... Cultural and Community Life: Domestic Life every pattern shot, you want to use in your weaving software that... Needed threads are shown for the coverlet was woven with 2 and 1/2 repeats in each piece has... Version has colored wool yarns herself of storms are two motifs used the pattern called... What that means is that after every pattern shot, you want to use the alternating shot. In bleached driftwood and fine sandy beaches heyday, both male and female weavers would travel... When sewn together re-imagined in all kinds of ways the red and blue wool over. Table portion of the professional weaver are curvilinear and realistic and can include floral, animal architectural... S Committee 1/2 repeats in each piece 36 ” wool linen early CountryRabbitVintage Indiana in 1854 draft it! Written with a colored yarn making a pattern weft yarn Jericho pattern coverlet piece for Crafting and Repurposing.... Coverlet with fringe on three sides is anything about the history and construction of.!
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